Venetian diary *            
                     
    by Paolo Rizzi            
                     
                     
boat parade in canal grande
 
The first Sunday of September, 1996
  The studio window has been there for years. He used to open and close it absently. Beyond it is a courtyard with a magnolia. One day however, the gentle notes of Begin the beguine were drifting from the portable radio. What happened? “I don’t even know myself” Ernani Costantini now recalls, “I know that the moon appeared to me from behind the leaves. And I jumped. It was as if it was I was looking out of that enchanted window for the first time”. Art is like that: a skipped heartbeat, a moment of estrangement, a spell in fact. Ernani Costantini has tried, now that the years are marching on for him as well, to remember: to pinpoint, that is, those unique moments.
He has done it, of course, using his accustomed tool of work: painting. About thirty paintings have been created, each of which recalls something, it aims, in other words, to re-capture that fragrance, that climate, that magic moment which happened once and which he still conserves inside himself. The dust of memories, nostalgia, modest little jolts of happiness.
But are they just simple memories? This is where the literary, we might say even visionary aspect comes into play. Ernani has depicted the familiar ‘Campo dei Mori’ but at the same time trying to identify with him who, over four centuries ago, already an old man, passed by every evening as he made his way to Madonna dell’Orto for prayers: Tintoretto. A sort of affectionate complicity between the painter of today and the painter of yesterday. “I think I catch a glimpse of him every now and again, furtively crossing that campo…”. Or perhaps it is a poem which conjures up a ghost all of a sudden, as in the case of Dora Markus, the Jewish girl who Eugenio Montale sketched so commendably in his verses and who now appears to Ernani as she sits, thoughtfully, enigmatically, at the coffee bar, the view of Saint Mark’s and the lagoon behind her. “Can you see, can you hear – Ernani inquires of me – that woman’s thoughts? Her tragic premonitions?”.
 
theatre character falls from swing
 
The fall of Zanni, 1987/88
thetre burning
 
The burning of La Fenice theatre, 1996
  It is a kind of ‘venetian diary’, both discreet and very personal: made perhaps of nuances, as well as flashes of light, and illumination. Memories are like that: they are scattered over the carpet like miniscule fragments of gold. Who picks them up? A lady on her box at La Fenice theatre is listening to music by Brahms. She appears with her delicate and refined elegance in the semidarkness, like a character from an eighteenth century locket. Ernani has also done a painting of the terrible fire which destroyed the theatre; but he focused on this mysterious, emblematic lady listening to Brahms. Who knows? Maybe it happened one evening ten, twenty, or thirty years ago. That intent face remained in the artist’s subconscious; then it emerged, taking shape in the painting. It remains a ghost however. “The thrill of a memory which might not even be a memory”, whispers Ernani. The surroundings, the setting, the place (and how could it not be?) is Venice: Ernani’s city. In this intimate diary, he sometimes portrays it directly, also in its most striking moments, such as the procession of the Historic Regatta, other times in an oblique way, almost personal, and hidden. In the large painting of the ‘Zanni’ Venice does not even appear. But the loss of that character, so emblematic of the Commedia dell’Arte symbolises (of course!) another loss: that of a culture, a civilisation, perhaps the loss of what was once the very essence of being Venetian.  
woman and man in the theatre balcony
 
Brahms at La Fenice theatre, 1996
great canal in venice and the rialtobridge
 
Canal Grande with Rialto bridge, 1996
  There is always something poignant about Ernani’s Venices. They pulsate and rejoice in the air and light, but at the same time, they feel, paradoxically, like strangers. How can I put it? Like foreigners.This Venetian Diary confirms an idea which we have always had but which was difficult to bring out into the open, to specify. Ernani is a Venetian painter up to a point. His heart leads him straight to the heart of the city so beloved by him (which he has loved and lived in); but his sensibility, and his culture lead him elsewhere. Don’t you see the tones of his paintings?
Those combinations of green and red hues which come from the North and appear almost to reject the basic principles of the Tiziano school? The Canal Grande from Palazzo Cavalli or the Campo San Polo itself are enveloped in an atmosphere which recalls echoes of symbolism/secessionism, if not the sharp algors of painters from Hamburg and Stockholm. A mood made of timbres rather than tones. On what does it depend? I suggest: on the very culture of Ernani, on his familiarity with foreign literature, his acquaintance with museums, his love of poets like Rimbaud, Verlaine, Maeterlinck, or even Eliot.
   
    Furthermore: who said that the Giorgione-Tiziano line is the true exponent of Venetian artistic culture? Ernani is part of the same clan as Tintoretto. “In my opinion, the real treasure trove of painting is the School of San Rocco”, he says.
He should know: the dramatic, sometimes spectral, ‘luminism’ of Tintoretto represents the other line, although a minor one, of Venetian painting. Beyond are El Greco and maybe Goya, Munch and perhaps Ensor. The circle gets wider. It is not by chance, that Ernani modestly refers to Giacomo Favretto only by his initial.
Who has never paused to observe the crowd who climb up and down Rialto bridge? Ernani painted the scene with a joyful manner and in brilliant colour. However, funnily enough, the association which occurred to him does not regard Carlo Goldoni nor Guglielmo Ciardi, but in fact Eliot. In The Waste Land the poet speaks of London Bridge while quoting Dante. The indifferent crowd is such “that I ne’er would have believed / that ever Death so many had undone”. Those tourists who pass through Rialto become something else.
That is what true painting is like. In fact: a true Venetian cannot be anything else: open to the world, beyond any impossible Venetian nostalgia.
 
people climbing the bridge stairs
 
On the Rialto Bridge, 1988
                     
                     
      Paolo Rizzi
1996

         
                     
    *^ From the catalogue of the exhibition Venetian diary    
                     
                     
                     
                             
                             
  © Famiglia Costantini